[:en]We left about mid day from Cancun, it would take about 3 hours on a bus across the Yum Balam natural reserve to Chiquilá, small coastal city on the southeast corner of the Yucatan peninsula. From there a 35 min ferry would take us to Holbox, or Holbosh, as the locals call it. It’s a small island with only a few cars, most people bike or use golf cars with big tires. A handful of hotels and a couple of hostels are available. We stayed in Ida Y Vuelta, a backpackers hostel with only a few guests at the time due to the off season, which usually means rain. Although it didn’t rain while we were there, the Mosquitos were present full force, mostly in the early evening.
Our hotel sat towards the east end of the town. A quick golf car ride away and we were right out front as we are greeted by a nicely spoken Mexican girl who showed us to two types of private cabañas, a sand floor one and a wooden floor one. Being the bohemian type that we are, we chose the sand floor, of course. Shortly after checking in and taking a quick shower we are on our way to dinner, where not knowingly we would meet the most amazing couple we have come across our trip; Ed and Temi, from London.
We sat down on one of the plastic tables at a small food shack on the beach and asked for a menu, in the back we can hear that charming British accent. We go through the “she’s a celiac speech” before ordering and after putting our order in Danielle reaches out and asks “Where are you guys from?”. Over the next hour or so, we get to know the first couple who we would travel for and the power of meeting people on the road, the fantastic links that are created with such ease that makes meeting people in kindergarten a task. We make plans to bike together the next morning, it’s love at first meal.
The natural beauty of this island is absolutely incredible, the sunsets anywhere on the island are what you’d expect to see on a Hollywood dream. It’s pristine clear water is fantastic for snorkeling. Our days were filled with walks, bike rides, swimming and running away from mosquitoes, literally. If there is one thing that people don’t do often enough is watch sunsets while sitting in the ocean, the reflections of what’s happening above you makes the experience even better. We watched the most amazing sunset on our last day in Holbox and as we were waiting for the sun to hide behind the horizon line, it was almost as if the mosquitoes were looking at a traffic light or race countdown for dinner to commence. The greatness of the sunset could only be compared to the armour of mosquitoes ready to attack. There were thousands of them, coming from every direction and attaching to anything they could. Sitting in the ocean with just our heads above water, it was necessary to dunk our heads in for a few seconds to get them off. Tami offers an alternative; to run for our lives from the beach to the hotel or to spend the night in the water. A 500 meter sprint against millions of mosquitoes, a race we were sure we were not gonna win but a gamble we had to take. We run to where our bag and clothes were, no time can be wasted putting anything on. We are off to a bad start, the slaps are easily heard coming from each of us trying to stay alive, 200 meters to go and I feel them on my face, these bastards are not messing around. Flip flops were not meant to be running shoes and I found out the hard way as they slip off I have to go back to get them. We finally reach the safety of our meshed off hotel room and the battle scars are clear, Danielle counts over 50 bites. I don’t even bother counting.
We put on bug spray and head out to dinner, the mosquitoes seem to be satisfied with their meal and it is our time to eat now. We share one last meal at the same place we met Ed and Temi. We order fish and it is absolutely delicious. Two coconuts with rum, or coco locos, serve as dessert and we are off to walk under a gazillion stars. The soft, relaxing sound of the ocean carries us to a blissful state of mind where we thank the universe for putting us where we are, for being what it is and for allowing us to see it. Although the night is young, we head to bed as the day after we will be leaving before dawn, Holbox bid us goodbye with a clear, cool night. Sleep comes easily.

Lodging: Hostel Ida y Vuelta
Kitchen: Yes (Seasonal)
Cost: $30USD (460 mexican pesos)
Date: Late 2014
Rating: 4/5
Review: Sand floors, private bathroom. 5 min walk from the beach. We loved this little hut. Bathrooms were specially built with seashells and ocean related items. Wished the kitchen would have been open for us.